Classic Gruen Vintage Watches Of The 1930s
The Techni-Quadron watches which were released in 1928 comprised of a rectangular face and were similar, to the Quadron. The top and the bottom dial were of similar big sizes, while the former consisted of the hour/minute, the latter consisted of the second hand.
The Techni-Quadrons were famously known as “doctor’s watches” as this large seconds subdial was easy to watch while measuring a pulse. The watch was also popular among engineers and other technical professions. Take notice that not all dual dial Gruen watches were doctor’s watches. The hour/minute hands on a Techni-Quadron are mounted above where the crown enters the case as apposed to the center of the dial. Some had an expanding buckle allowing them to be slid up the arm freeing the hand and wrist.
The Carr, French for square, which was released in 1931, was a convenient square-shaped pocket watch. The 12, 3, 6 and 9 numbers were arranged in the 4 corners giving it the shape of a diamond. It could be used by both the genders and hence was marketed as a man’s pocket watch and a women’s purse watch as well as a portable table clock. A number of models came with luminous hands and numbers so that the they could be seen in the dark. The Carr was terminated in the year 1934 and cost around at $55 (~ $1400 at present).
The Curvex, which was released in 1935, was termed Curvex Governor for men and the Curvex Queen (1936) for women. It was not only the most famous watch of the Gruen vintage collection, but was also the flagship watch until the late 1940s. The production of this watch was terminated after 1954.
The unique feature of the Curvex was not only that they were curved but more so that the movement inside was also curved. These watches used a patented movement (1,855,952) in which the gears were configured in a curved arrangement. Other curved watches of the 1930s had to use smaller movements that were less accurate and more fragile.
Each and every real men’s Curvex watches were Precision grade and used any one of the four movements listed at the end. As a matter of fact, what makes these watches elite and Curvex, is the movement itself. The four movements which are possible to be used are; 1935- caliber 311 which is a long, thin movement; 1937- caliber 330- which is a long, thin and a curved movement; 1940- caliber 440- which is a short, square/oval movement and finally; 1948- caliber 370- which is a short and a wide movement (Curvametric).
The Ristside, pronounced wrist side, was released in 1937 and was meant to be worn on the side of your wrist inline with your thumb. Although these are widely desired by collectors they one of the rarest as Gruen did not sell many. Also some collectors will try to sell any watch with hinged lugs as a Ristside. With the exception of the Fraternity (mentioned below) and one other very similar model all Ristsides are rectangular and have very curved cases.
The Curvex-Ristside watches fit into both the Curvex and the Ristside family of Gruen vintage watches. The Curvex Coronet, Curvex Lord, and the Curvex Admiral all used the 330 movement mentioned above. The Curvex-Ristside Fraternity had hinged lugs and used the 440 movement.